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How to avoid buying a crash-damaged car?

Inspection 2 July 2026 · Hot Deals Garage

A crash-damaged car is not a problem in itself – the problem is a poorly repaired and concealed impact. Such a car can be unsafe, and its value is far lower than what you pay.

Here is how impact traces are recognised in practice.

Measuring paint thickness

The cheapest and most effective tool is a paint thickness gauge. The factory layer is usually 80–160 µm. Readings above 300 µm almost always mean filler, and different numbers on adjacent panels mean repainting.

Measure every panel, not just suspicious ones: roof, pillars, sills. Roof paintwork is a serious signal, because the roof is repainted only after major incidents or hail damage.

Geometry and panel gaps

  • Gaps between body panels should be even on the left and right.
  • Doors, bonnet and boot should open and close without effort.
  • Turned bolts on wings and hinges – the panel was removed.
  • New lights or glass on one side – replaced after an impact.
  • Different glass markings indicate glass replacement.

History reports

VIN check reports show recorded insurance events, especially if the car was imported from the US or Western Europe. But it is important to understand: reports show only what was declared. An impact repaired "in a garage with no paperwork" will not appear in a report.

So a report is a supporting tool, not a substitute for inspection. The final word always belongs to a physical examination.

When crash damage is not a verdict

A well-repaired minor impact (replaced wing, bumper) is not a disaster if it is reflected in the price and the seller does not hide it. The worst combination is concealed damage at full market price.

Our rule: impact history must be known, repair quality must be checked, and the price must match the facts.

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